Hartley's Oceans & Islands

KENYA
Kenya has postcard beaches with white sand, coconut palms and clear blue water. Many are lined with beach resorts. South of Mombasa, you’ll find beaches that are white coral sand and protected by coral reef (which means no sharks). Lamu has some of the best beaches on this coast, especially since they’re not plagued by the seaweed problems of some of the beaches to the north of Mombasa (at some times of year). Diani Beach is one of the best on the mainland while Tiwi beach, between Diani and Mombasa is more low-key and less developed. Whilst most divers head for the marine parks of Malindi and Watumu, Shimoni and Wasani islands are even better - although less accessible and not as developed. Non-divers can still enjoy the underwater world of corals and fish in glass-bottomed boats (for example in Malindi). Visibility is often only fair as there is often plankton in the water. You’ll still see plenty of fish, even if coral isn’t spectacular. Shimoni lies at the northern most tip of the Pemba Channel, part of a large bay area making up the Shimoni archipelago. Boat dives access a number of excellent sites in the Kisite Mpunguti marine national park. The neighbouring islands and atolls of Shimoni, Wasini, Kisiti and Pengutti all fall under the protection of the Reserve. Wasini Island is the largest island in the bay and is home to a fantastic variety of bird life as well as extensive mangroves, which provide a secure habitat to juvenile reef fish. Beyond the island there are a range of excellent dive sites.

Malindi, a small town on Kenya's coast, was the landing site of Vasco de Gama's fleet in 1498 after he wasn't allowed into the Mombasa harbor. Malindi became the Portuguese base on the East African coast and remained so for almost 100 years. The Malindi Marine Park starts at its southern end, stretches from Leopard Point for a mile to a spot just south-west of Sand Island; then northwards for a mile along Stork Passage to beyond the tip of North Reef, and from there back to the beach at Chanoni Point. The coastline of the Park is an attractive coral-sand beach. Low tide exposes more sand and patches of seaweed, broken by shallow pools and channels. Between the shoreline and the two main reefs, North Reef and Barracuda Reef, runs Barracuda Channel. The water here is deep for normal goggling, but the sandy bottom with its rich growth of seaweed harbors numerous shells, particularly the common spider conch, which may often be seen on the shallower edges of the Channel. South of Malindi is Watamu and the incredible Watamu National Marine Park, which is in the protected zone of the Marine National Reserve. Watamu allows absolutely no fishing, so the fish are not afraid of humans. The coral gardens offer every type of tropical marine life imaginable and the water is crystal clear. Glassbottom boats are available and snorkelling is about as perfect as it gets. The overhanging cliff gardens and the "Big Three Caves" at Mida Creek have some giant grouper for those who want to see some of the bigger fish that inhabit Kenya's reefs